Rethinking Business Casual

As workplace dress codes continue to loosen, there are different definitions of what’s appropriate to wear to the office. Here are some ideas to help you put together outfits along the three most common approaches to dressing down for work. 

Dressy: Jacket and Tie

For client meetings and other occasions when you need to show more formality, a jacket, separate trousers, and a tie still mean business.  

Your workhorse here is the classic solid blue blazer. Especially when worn with equally iconic elements like grey wool trousers, boldly striped neckties, and hand-rolled pocket squares, a well-cut natural-shoulder blazer strikes an elegant balance between the professional formality of a suit and the more relaxed look of a patterned sportcoat. The classic model features brass buttons on dark navy wool, while more modern variations include richer blues, more textured cloths (our bestselling wool/silk seersucker is perfect for a lightweight summer blazer), and subtler buttons made of gunmetal, brown horn, or smoked mother-of-pearl. We suggest avoiding navy horn lest your blazer look like a suit orphan. For a more unusual look, consider a blazer in a different color, and feel free to experiment with bolder shirts — they’ll be well-framed by a blazer’s solid field.   

The next step down the formality scale are sportcoats. Like blazers, sportcoats are by definition not suit coats. Their patterned cloth suggests that wearing one is an elegant choice rather than a workplace requirement. Keep the shirt, trousers, and tie on the simple side (e.g. white or light blue fine patterned shirt, striped tie, and grey or tan trousers) and you can’t go wrong. You can also consider a knit slack jacket as an alternative. It wears like a sweater and looks as confident as it is comfortable. 

Medium blues enhance most complexions. Jon’s striped tie integrates the blazer, the gunmetal buttons, and the trousers.

This look is classic business casual. Note how the gold field of the tie plays off of Andrew’s brass blazer buttons.

Adding layers for Fall. Pulling colors together turns several individual pieces into a cohesive whole. The navy base of the cashmere tie with the blazer, the green interior stripe of the tie with the green v-neck sweater, and the brass buttons pick up the gold stripe.

Our knitted slack jacket dressed up with a cashmere blazer tie. Take off the tie and it’s a weekend-ready outfit.

Andrew’s look here makes a bit of a statement with a more aggressive navy horizontal striped shirt.

This look pushes it a bit further, but if you’re in a setting where you need to dress sharp but you still have some room for individual style, a boldly patterned tie and tailored pieces with texture can still look professional.

Classic Business Casual: Jacket and No Tie

This is probably the most common mode in workplaces that have abandoned the tie, but still insist on a measure of professional polish. 

Your shirts will be playing a bigger role, so consider something a bit more interesting than a solid white or light blue. Patterned shirts complement solid blazers, while patterned sportcoats play well with shirts in richer colors (especially a color that appears in the jacket pattern). Tonal outfits can be quite sleek and modern, and it’s a good idea to vary the textures to create depth and keep things interesting.  

A key aspect of the tie-less outfit is your shirt collar. You want some dimensionality here that doesn’t collapse under your jacket lapels. We like our soft button-down collar, which has a slight spread and a relaxed roll that stands up when worn open. Recently many of our clients have enjoyed the hidden button-down, which offers the look of a semi-spread collar with the structure of a button-down. A quality lightweight polo shirt with a good cut-and-sewn collar is another great option. Or, you can avoid the collar concern altogether and wear a solid crewneck knit.

The kind of pants you wear will do a lot to dial in the level of formality you’re going for. Crisply pressed wool trousers will snap any shirt and jacket into professional precision, while khakis and even blue jeans will take the same look straight through the weekend. We generally suggest that you avoid wearing classic suit trousers on their own, because that’s exactly what they look like. Finally, don’t be shy about adding a complementary pocket square — tie-less ensembles really benefit from the added visual interest.

A forest green wool and mohair blazer with cream wool/silk/linen trousers is a fresh twist on a classic look.

Classic paired-down business casual. The perfect proportion of the clothes makes all the difference here and separate it from every other tan pant/blue blazer combo. The right jacket length and waist button position, and trousers that sit above the hips.

A patterned sportcoat is a slightly less formal alternative to a blazer, pushed even more casual when worn over a solid tee.

A seersucker shirt, white bucks, and our double-tab extended waistband trousers make for classic minimalism.

A fresh take on the iconic grey and navy combo. Try a relaxed and cozy version with a charcoal sweater and navy knitted slack jacket with the stalwart grey wool trousers.

A cotton polo can work well under a soft, relaxed jacket like this unconstructed cashmere blazer.

Informal: Shirtsleeves

We know a lot of men hang up their jackets as soon as they get to the office, many choose not to wear one in the summer, and in a lot of workplaces folks don’t wear one at all. It’s still possible to look great, and set yourself apart a bit with interesting shirts, knitwear, and trousers. For shirts, bolder stripes and plaids and different fabrics (denim, pique, jersey, knit) keep things interesting up top. We strongly favor a tucked-in shirt, even in the most relaxed workplace settings. A belt here is a good opportunity to show some personality, and we’re partial to our custom alligator or ostrich skins. Other options include the side tab and buckle and our take on the classic “gurkha” waistband. Our trousers are cut to sit on the natural waist, which, in addition to being more comfortable, gives a longer leg-line and a more athletic silhouette.           

Consider swapping your light blue dress shirt for a tailored denim one. It gets better with every wash.

A tartan cotton and cashmere shirt plays well with the texture and color of these lightweight corduroy trousers. Throw on a sweater and you’re ready for fall.

A washed denim shirt with Western details and snuff suede shoes perfectly frame a pair of cream wool/silk/linen trousers.

When your suit pants have some texture like this 10oz wool flannel, they can make great more fashion-forward separates when paired with equally textured tops like this cotton and linen sweater.

The gurkha waistband is a classic and comfortable style we’ve brought back from the archives. A bit dandy-ish, and definitely something to make a statement.

The gurkha waistband is a classic and comfortable style we’ve brought back from the archives. A bit dandy-ish, and definitely something to make a statement.

The side tab and buckle keeps your trousers where you want them without adding the bulk of a belt, and makes for an interesting style detail.

The Key Players

The navy blazer - The workhorse, go-anywhere jacket. A well-tailored wardrobe starts here. We offer ours from $1,700.

The alternative jacket - Generally a subtle pattern such as a houndstooth or glen plaid, or a conservative non-blue solid like maroon or forest green. It’s the one you wear to express more personal style, and often a bit more casually.

Odd wool trousers - Medium grey and tan are the most essential. Choose seasonal cloths for a touch of sophistication: cozy flannel in winter and crisp tropical worsted for summer. Whether pleated or flat front, a slightly higher waist is flattering, comfortable, and professional.

Cotton trousers - A step below wool on the formality scale, soft cotton can be rendered in a dress trouser cut with a slightly higher rise and easier leg than the standard casual washed cotton chino. Lightweight gabardines in the summer, and cavalry twills in the winter.

Bolder dress shirts - The dress shirt assumes greater prominence in jacket-less settings, offering an opportunity to express yourself a bit more than the standard white or light blue solid. Consider tattersalls, strong stripes, and different colors – most men look great in a soft pink!

Pocket squares - Alan frequently points out that the simple white hand-rolled pocket square is the least expensive way to make an inexpensive jacket or suit look more upmarket. In the absence of a necktie — a colorful silk or wool print pocket square can really enliven an otherwise conservative outfit.

Belts - A great place to pay show a little personality, both with the leather and the buckle style. We like our custom dark brown or black alligator or classic honey brown ostrich with a gold or silver O-ring buckle.

Socks - We think it’s best to leave the novelty socks to others. Not that yours have to be boring; consider harmonizing them with something above the belt. Our dress socks are all over-the-calf constructed of lightweight cotton with subtle patterns.

Shoes - In a pared down aesthetic, shoes become that much more important. Well-polished, high-quality cap-toe oxfords will always elevate an ensemble’s formality, but lightweight loafers are by far the most versatile. Your shoes and pants don’t need to match, but tonally, they should be in the same ballpark: e.g. dark brown calf or suede with navy or charcoal, tan or tobacco with lighter colors.

Let us know if you’d like help thinking through a business casual wardrobe of your own. We’re always glad to talk!

Email us at info@alanflusser.com